Last week I went to Copenhagen, the capital of Denmark, for a 3 day IT training. The Danish kitchen is mainly known for meat and fish meals and Denmark claims to being the biggest pig meat exporter in the world (pig producers: 8.300, number of pigs produced per year: 25.800.000, number of live exports: 3.700.000), followed by Canada and the US. So I didn’t expect to be in vegan heaven and did my homework beforehand. I found at least 3 vegetarian restaurants in Copenhagen, all of them with some vegan choices as well. Next to these vegetarian restaurants, there are also some normal restaurants which also serve vegetarian and vegan dishes, but if I have the choice I try to avoid those.
The evening I arrived it was already late and trying to get to the hotel I had to live with some plain bread and a huge coffee at the central train station. It was simple but after a long day, yummy and enough to fill my stomach.
The next day after the training I took the metro and went over to Christiania, where the Morgenstedet restaurant is located. Christiania is a partially self-governing neighborhood of about 850 residents in the center of Copenhagen.
Without a map it took me a while to find it and on the Christiania territory I wasn’t able to find the restaurant and to be honest, I didn’t really feel comfortable there, so I decided to leave and try one of the other restaurants.
Two metro stations later I arrived at the Norreport Station from where it wasn’t too far to Govindas. Govindas is a Hare Krishna restaurant as you can find them in many cities. They serve vegetarian Indian food for an affordable price. The restaurant is kept very simple with Indian background music. As far as I know, Govindas serves at least one vegan menu every day, so the choice is easy. It was a good meal, although slightly overcooked and bland in flavor.
The next day I wanted to try out the Grønne Kælder after I had a few beers in the Nørrebro Bryghus. The Grønne Kælder is also in walking distance of the Norreport Station and I found it without any problems but unfortunately it was closed that day (with a note in Danish on the door). The restaurant is located in the basement and looked very cosy.
So I walked another 15 minutes and went to Govindas again, where they had a different, yet similar tasting menu.
The next day it was already time to leave Copenhagen again and decided to eat a good lunch at the airport before my flight at 12:22, since I had to go to the office directly after arriving in Amsterdam. I had a delicious and huge vegetarian pasta dish (Pasta Vegetar) at Gino’s Pasta, which was vegan as well.
If you arrive in Copenhagen or leave and don’t want to travel with an empty stomach, I can highly recommend this meal. It wasn’t as expensive as one would expect from an airport restaurant.
Addresses and links:
Govindas
Nøerre Farimagsgade 82, 1364 København K
phone: +45 33 33 74 44
www: http://www.govindas.dk
Den Grønne Kælder
Pilestræde 48, 1112 København K
phone: +45 33 93 01 40
Morgenstedet
Bådmandsstræde 43, Christiania, København K
I need to write,in case others read this blog,but Den Grønne Kælder and Govindas have closed (at least I’m pretty sure Govindas closed,not sure if they opened elsewhere). I’m relieved that you didn’t eat at Den Grønne Kælder as you would have been disappointed. I know I was when I first ate there. They microwaved their food!! Maybe I’m a snobby ex-New Yorker transplanted in Copenhagen,but if you charge the equivalent of $30 I do NOT want my food microwaved. And don’t even get me started on the only half-cooked beans and flavorless hummus!
Morgenstedet is quite good and a bit more affordable. There are a few other veg places which have popped up. I would highly recommend checking out HappyCow.com for other veg restaurants,if traveling to Copenhagen. Also,as she says,bring food with you if you’re arriving late! Things close here quite early and even grocery stores are closed between 7 and 8pm. It’s not the easiest place to be vegetarian and vegan is even harder. If you’re going to be here for longer than a few days,I highly recommend trying to get an apartment so you can cook for yourself. That’s the only way I survive here. Oh,and the Turkish places save me every time. They always have great hummus and falafel,if nothing else,as long as you don’t mind white pita bread.
Copenhagen is slowly moving forward with the veg options,but you still can’t find eggless meat substitutes (not that I eat much of those,but for grilling,it’s rather disappointing to not have many options). You just have to have patience and do some good homework when visiting. I recommend this when traveling anywhere,really,even when traveling in Europe. The US is highly more evolved with the veg lifestyle.
Btw for the op, beer is not vegan nor vegetarian. Gelatine from pigs are used to make the beer seem more clear. Also used in wine. This is done in more than 95% of all the products, and all that are not purchased from speciality stores or on the internet labeled as vegan wine or beer. Just so you know
@Mikkel: Yes but there are various lists available with vegan beers and wines, e.g. on http://www.barnivore.com
Do you have a source for the 95%?